October 27, 2005
In Defense Of Decent Pastry + That Blank Canvas Bruschetta
Say what you will about Starbucks. Sure, they muscle dozens of perfectly good local coffeehouses and roasters out of business every year and flatten the coffee landscape as they go. They burn the crap out of damn-near every shot of espresso they pull. They’ve changed conventional wisdom about what a simple latte should cost, let alone taste like. *shudder*
However, one of the greatest fallacies to be found in those reassuringly red-lit environs are the spectres they attempt to pass off as PASTRIES.
Limp, lifeless, wooden, weak, alternately too-sweet and flavorless, they scarcely deserve to be called baked goods. Nay, they seem to have been belched out of some nefarious cousin of the Nutri-Matic machine from the Hitchhiker’s Guide series, endlessly turning out items that are “..almost, but not quite, entirely unlike pastries”
In these health-concious times, a pastry is almost a revolt- a personal snicker in the face of calorie-counters, for the sake of sacred communion with the butter, the chocolate, and the holy toasted almonds! Certainly nothing to be sneered at. A pastry is a commitment, a pact, the cause of many brisk runs to the gym. A pastry should tantalize the senses, envelop the soul, and send one into swirling rapture.
..or at the very least it should TASTE GOOD, right?!
*pant* *pant*
Excuse me. Anyhow, here in S.F. we’re blessed with not only some wonderful coffee :roasters, but a good amount of local coffeehouses that have yet to give up the ghost, and most of these serve pastries that just wipe the floor with their plasticine Starbucks equivalents (and let’s not talk about, shh, the COFFEE).
My favorite place for a pastry and a cup of drip in my neighborhood is Squat & Gobble, a place which also does quite good crepes and other offerings. It’s 3 or 4 doors down from me, the coffee is servicable and the pastries are local and fresh.
The place showcases art from local folks, and the people working there are friendly in an unforced way. They are an indelible part of the neighborhood in a way that no megachain could ever be.
Filed under: Recipes, Philosophy
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